Millsy Whole 9 yards. Open top jeeps with a naturalist-driver, 5am-11am & 3pm-6pm safaris. My arse is still hurting from all the sitting, and I love sitting. Stayed in a resort with just four villas overlooking a river, had the whole place to ourselves. Funny you mention Kali because we were right in the middle of a festival celebrating her, saw some weirdos on the way there.
Rhouses pro-tip, don’t prioritise Goa if you’re ever planning an India trip, and put a week aside for Kanha. Will be way more fulfilling.